Leather Fashion Industry Transformation Survey (Part 2)
Our reporter Zou Jianfeng
"The leather fashion industry still has a lot of room for growth, but relying on the 'old company' 'old products' 'old business status' is not far away, we must cultivate new kinetic energy." In an interview with reporters, Haining China Leather City Director Chang Zhangming said so.
Flexible manufacturing, rapid response, manufacturing upgrade
Flexible and rapid response supply chain, personalized customization, demonstration production... During the interview, the reporter heard the entrepreneurs talk about these words more than once.
Zhang Yueming told reporters that Haining’s enterprises at the forefront of innovation are now basically adopting the “flexible and rapid response supply chain†production method to cope with the rapid and individualized demand of the market. There are various ways to do this, such as piloting a batch of new styles, Each store puts two or three pieces of test water, and interacts with consumers through various channels. Once the marketable style is found, it can be quickly replenished immediately. Some companies also combine flexible and rapid response supply chains with personalized customization to quickly design and produce according to the individual needs of consumers.
“From design to raw material procurement, garment production to market launch, the traditional supply chain model needs more than 120 days. The international clothing giant ZARA, which first proposed the 'sensitive supply chain system', achieved a 15-day global rapid response, which is called by the industry. Miracle. Our requirement is that from order to design, plate making, production, to the counter or directly to the customized customer, the whole process must be completed within 7 days.†Ge Yaguang, Chairman of Haining Mai Enlite Fashion Co., Ltd. told reporters .
Zhou Jie, chairman of Haining Emma Leather Fashion Co., Ltd., started his own company in 2012. After several years of operation, he found that a trend is becoming more and more obvious: more and more styles, and the output of single products is getting lower and lower.
“Last year, the company developed no less than 1,000 styles, and the most produced ones did not exceed 2,000. In the past, one style could be tens of thousands. This shows that consumers are increasingly demanding personalization. Now companies are also very cautious, and rarely produce a large number of clothes before the market as in the past to avoid 'death' in the inventory backlog." Zhou Jie said.
Ge Yaguang revealed to reporters that in order to meet the individual needs, the company has set up a “flexible fast reverse production lineâ€, in his own words: “five ten pieces of orders, even if they are brought, can be delivered in the fastest day.â€
At the 2017 Haining China Leather Fur Raw Materials Exhibition, the reporter also noticed a phenomenon: some raw material exhibitors and specialized design agencies cooperated to develop new styles, and the original accessories were made into garments for display.
For example, Desheng Leather from Shanxi Zhangzhou cooperated with the Italian design team to develop a series of raw materials and ready-to-wear styles, and invited designers to explain the trend of products and garments. Zhang Qingzhong, chairman of the company, said: “The raw materials are for garments. When we develop our products, we have considered what kind of clothes are suitable for different fabrics. The direct production of garments is on the one hand, so that the garment enterprises have a full understanding of the raw materials. On the other hand, it provides a clearer direction for the design and development of ready-to-wear garments."
"The new kinetic energy of the industry's transformation and development is ultimately the market's forced out. There is a saying that is good: 'You have changed the world and changed.' Faced with industry adjustments and fierce market competition, if the world changes, you still No change, it can be said to be catastrophic for enterprise development." Zhang Yueming analyzed this.
Design +: From consensus to action
On March 11th, the winners of the “2017 Leather Logo Cup China International Leather Suede Fabric Fashion Design Competition†were announced in Haining. The competition was hosted by the China Leather Association, hosted by the Haining Municipal People's Government, Haining China Leather City, the China Academy of Art Textile and Garment Research Institute, and the National (Zhejiang) Leather Quality Supervision and Inspection Center.
The contest started in November last year, with 144 entries from nearly 30 companies including Zhejiang, Hebei, Henan, Anhui, Shandong and Turkey. The final contest expert team produced 10 fabrics for the best R&D, 6 individual awards and 20 best R&D fabrics. It is reported that the "Leather Logo" certification mark is one of the first batch of China's first certification marks registered by the China Leather Association in 1994. It has been internationally registered in 18 overseas countries and regions. The reporter noted that on the previous January 20th, hosted by the China Leather Association, Haining Municipal People's Government, Haining China Leather City hosted the 20th "Leather Logo Cup" China International Leather Fur Clothing Design Competition Haining, Yu Erbao The preliminary contests of Chengdu's three major divisions have been announced.
“The 'Leather Logo' design competition in the field of clothing started in 1997, when it was called the National Leather Fashion Design Grand Prix, which was held in Haining. Later it expanded into the leather and suede clothing design grand prix. The competition also expanded from Haining to Yu Erbao. And Chengdu. Now the competition has expanded to fabric design. This shows that the importance of design for the development of the industry has become a universal action from the consensus." Ren Youfa, president of Haining Leather Industry Association, said this to reporters.
The reporter also learned that the leather and suede clothing design competition needs to be funded by enterprises, raw materials, equipment and labor to assist in the proofing and production of the participating garments, and the companies that are willing to “generously contribute†have also competed with the contestants from the beginning. Many of the students in the relevant institutions have made in-depth contacts, and many of the cutting-edge designers who have emerged from the competition have been listed in the first place.
This accumulation has made Haining gradually form the leading “design +†gathering place in the industry. At the same time, the cooperation between Haining and Tsinghua University, China Academy of Art and other well-known institutions and design institutions at home and abroad has also been continuously expanded and strengthened. The Haining Municipal Government has also adopted subsidized tuition fees to encourage enterprises to send designers out to “charge†and support The industry established the first leather designer association in China - Haining Designers Association. Zhejiang Province's provincial-level industrial design demonstration base has also settled in Haining.
Up to now, there are 40 design enterprises with independent brands and independent design capabilities in Haining China Leather City and surrounding areas, 60 design center studios, 642 full-time designers, and one provincial excellent industrial design enterprise, Jiaxing City and Haining. There are 16 municipal excellent industrial design enterprises (design centers). The design services revenues of various design enterprises and studios totaled 567 million yuan, and the output value of design achievements was 9.405 billion yuan, with a total investment of 726.07 million yuan.
The combination of government and enterprise: push the industry to accelerate transformation
For a long time, hand-stitching has always been regarded as the essence of the “artisan spirit†of the garment manufacturing industry. However, for enterprises, the low efficiency brought by the low degree of automation and the rising cost have become more and more scratching in recent years. problem.
Can leather garment enterprises use information technology to achieve intelligent manufacturing? In an interview with Haining Mai Enlite Fashion Co., Ltd., the reporter saw this attempt: the company not only introduced the ERP system, but also set up new ones with various automation equipment. assembly line.
Ge Yaguang, chairman of Haining Meinlet Fashion Co., Ltd., took a sheepskin jacket from the company and calculated the account for the reporter: the same 20 workers, the traditional production line can do up to 75 workdays, "Maine The production line of Leite's production line can be up to 150 pieces because of the automation of multiple processes. Compared to traditional leather sewing masters, the operator training required for the production line is relatively simple and the labor costs can be cut in half.
It is reported that ERP management, automated production, 6S management, etc. have been tried and promoted in some enterprises in recent years, and this trend is obviously in line with the government's expectations. In an interview with the Haining City Economic and Information Bureau, the reporter saw a document entitled "Promoting the transformation and upgrading of the leather industry, the net worth, and the information policy measures", including R&D design, brand creation, talent introduction and training, and market expansion. 11 incentives such as e-commerce, bigger and stronger, personalized customization, and the establishment of the Leather Fashion Industry Development Fund. At the 14th Party Congress of Haining City held at the end of December 2016, the city proposed to use three years of traditional industries including leather, warp knitting and home textiles to create a fashion industry with a scale of 100 billion yuan. .
Since 2015, the Zhejiang Provincial Government has also issued the "Zhejiang Province Fashion Industry Development Plan" and "Guiding Opinions on Accelerating the Development of Fashion Industry" and other documents, clearly including the fashion industry to include the seven "10,000" to support the province's economic development. One of the billion industries, the goal is to transform the fashion industry, including leather, into a fashion industry with a scale of one trillion yuan by 2020.
In June 2015, the Zhejiang Provincial Government announced the first batch of 37 provincial-level characteristic towns to be created. The Haining Leather Fashion Town, centered on Haining Leather City, was officially shortlisted. Haining Leather Fashion Town will build 8 projects including Fashion Industrial Park, Headquarters Economic Zone, International Fashion Brand Pavilion, Headquarters Business District, Designer DreamWorks, Leather Science and Technology Innovation Center, International Fashion and Leisure Park, and Fashion Street.
Zhang Yueming predicted that “in the next three to five years, the scale of the leather fashion industry will expand, but the structure will change dramatically: many companies that once had a good time will no longer exist, replaced by those “new forces†who dare to innovate and be willing to invest. ".
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